Colour Charts

Soyer Enamel Colour Chart

Soyer (France) has been producing world-class jewelry enamels since 1847. Known for their exceptional purity and depth of color, these enamels are the preferred choice for master jewelers worldwide.

Key Technical Characteristics:

  • Firing Temperature: Most Soyer enamels are formulated to fire between 770°C and 820°C (1418°F – 1508°F).
  • Expansion (COE): Designed for compatibility with high-quality metals, including Sterling Silver (925), Fine Silver (999), Gold (18K - 24K), and Copper.
  • Grind Size (Mesh): Standard production is typically 80 mesh, which provides a balanced texture for both wet packing and sifting.

Categories:

  • Transparent (T): Offer crystal-clear transparency, ideal for Basse-taille where the metal texture is visible.
  • Opaque (O): Deep, solid colors with excellent hiding power and a smooth, glossy finish.
  • Opal (Op): Semi-translucent shades that react beautifully to light, creating a misty, delicate glow.

Professional Recommendations:

  1. Preparation: To achieve maximum clarity in transparent colors, we recommend rinsing the enamel powder with distilled water to remove any microscopic fines before application.
  2. Compatibility: When layering Soyer with other brands (like Hirosawa or Thompson), always perform a test firing to ensure the coefficient of expansion is compatible.
  3. Flux (Clear Enamel): For the most vibrant reds and warm tones on silver, it is recommended to apply a foundation layer of clear flux (fondant) first.

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Hirosawa Enamel Colour Chart 

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Nihonshippou Enamel Colour Chart 

Japanese Hirosawa and Nihonshippou enamels are world-renowned for their incredible purity, consistency, and unique color palette, including the famous "Opal" shades. These enamels are prized by masters of Cloisonné and Ginbari for their delicate finish.

Key Technical Characteristics:

  • Firing Temperature: Generally lower than European enamels, firing between 740°C and 790°C (1364°F – 1454°F).
  • Expansion (COE): Specifically optimized for Sterling Silver (925), Fine Silver (999) and Gold (18-24K). They also perform exceptionally well on copper.
  • Grind Size (Mesh): Available in a very uniform fine grind, typically around 100–200 mesh, allowing for high-precision detail work.
  • Semi-Translucent (Opal): Their "trademark" category. These colors provide a soft, misty glow that changes depending on the light.
  • Transparent: Highly filtered for extreme clarity, reducing the risk of "black spots" after firing.

Professional Recommendations:

  1. Washing is Critical: Due to the high purity and fine grind, Japanese enamels must be washed 5-10 times with distilled water until the water is crystal clear. This ensures the "mirror finish" Japan is famous for.
  2. Thin Layers: These enamels are designed to be applied in multiple thin layers rather than one thick coat. This prevents cloudiness in the translucent shades.
  3. Lead Content: Please note that most traditional Japanese enamels contain lead to achieve their unique brilliance. Always handle with appropriate safety gear.

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